Pattern hack Mia

19 juillet 2021

Our Mia Shirt pattern is a simple, comfortable piece. The large neckline and dropped shoulders flatter every figure. As you know from previous models, we love the mix of materials, such as jersey with silk or jersey with polyester satin. The latter is easy to wash, making it a simple top you'll enjoy wearing every day.

Length at the center back: 55 – 61 cm

In this tutorial, Mia was sewn from a viscose jersey and a pleated fabric.

→ To the “Mia” pattern

To give you a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

Cutting preparations:

To create one front piece from two existing pattern pieces, you must first remove the dart inside the yoke.

To do this, first draw a line on your yoke, starting at the shoulder. Then cut it from the shoulder to just before the end.

Now glue the short piece of the old dart together. The lower front piece will also be connected to the yoke. To do this, turn the side yoke piece closed and glue the two together. This way, the dart will pop up into your cut line and is now inside the shoulder.

Since you don't want the dart to be inside the shoulder, you'll need to measure the resulting dart and subtract it from the shoulder, measured from the armhole. Redraw your armhole accordingly and cut out the paper.

Place a piece of cardboard behind the new shoulder dart and redraw the shoulder line. Tip: You can use the old shoulder line from the Mia pattern and copy it. Important: The shoulder length of the front piece must be the same as the shoulder length of the back piece!

Here you can see your finished modified top.

Now let's move on to the diagonal dividing seams on the front and back. Draw a diagonal line on both the front and back so that you can later attach the pleats to the dividing seam.

You should make sure that the transition at the side seams is the same, which means the same distance from the hem measured on the front and back pieces.

Draw parallel lines to your dividing lines, and your pleated pattern piece is complete. You can decide how long you want the pleated section to be. I chose a length of 20 cm including seam allowance. Then, join the pattern pieces together at the side seam. Remember to trim away the seam allowances first. Don't forget to add the seam allowances to the pattern.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Position the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the lettering facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

1x back part in the fracture
1x front part in the break
1x ribbon for the neck hole
2x tape for armhole finishing
1x pleated peplum

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch. This means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch. Then, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another similar stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue a seam.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Place your front piece, right sides together, on the back piece and close both the shoulder and side seams. Neaten the seam allowances together and press them to the back.

The neck and armhole bands are placed, right sides together, and sewn together in a round. The seam allowances are pressed open, and the bands are pressed in the fold.

Next, pin the collar, for example, to the neckline, right sides together. Now you can sew the collar to the neckline. Fold the collar inside once and sew it to the neckline, width apart from the quilting foot. Repeat this for the armholes.

Sew a 0.5cm stitch along the top pleat edge to ensure your pleat stays in place when you sew it to your top. Then sew the side seam of the pleat closed.