SCHNITTMUSTER-HACK “MIA”

PATTERN HACK “MIA”

Slip into our pattern Shirt Mia and immediately feel comfortable. The large neckline and dropped shoulders flatter every figure. As you know from previous models, we love the mix of materials, such as jersey with silk or jersey with polyester satin. The latter can be washed without any problems, so it is an uncomplicated top that you can wear every day.

Length at center back 55-61 cm

In these instructions, Mia was sewn from a viscose jersey and a pleated fabric.

→ To the pattern “Mia”

In order to get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

Cutting preparations:

In order to create one from the front part with two existing pattern parts, you have to remove the dart inside the yoke beforehand.

To do this, first draw a line in your yoke, coming from the shoulder. Then cut into it starting from the shoulder until just before the end.

Now glue the short piece of the old dart together. The lower front part is also connected to the yoke. To do this, turn the yoke on the side and glue both together. This way the dart will pop up into your cut line and is now inside the shoulder.

But since you don't want the dart inside the shoulder either, you have to measure the length of the resulting dart and subtract it from the shoulder, measured from the armhole. Redraw your armhole accordingly and cut away the paper.

Place a piece of cardboard behind the new shoulder dart and redraw the shoulder line. Tip: You can use and copy the old shoulder line from the Mia pattern for this. Important: the shoulder length of the front piece must be the same length as the shoulder length of the back piece!

Here you can see your modified upper part.

Now we come to the diagonal dividing seams in the front and back part. Draw a sloping line in the front and back so that you can later attach the pleats to the dividing seam.

You should make sure that the transition at the side seams is the same, which means the same distance from the hem measured on the front and back.

Draw a parallel line to your dividing lines and your pattern piece for the pleated blind is ready. When it comes to the length of the pleated blind, you can decide how long you want the section to be. I chose a length of 20cm with seam allowance. Then you put the pattern pieces together at the side seam, remember to cut away the seam allowances beforehand. Don't forget to add the seam allowances at the pattern.

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

  • 1x back in break
  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x ribbon for the neckline
  • 2x tape for armhole trimming
  • 1x pleated peplum

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Place your front piece, right sides together, on the back piece and sew both the shoulder and side seams. Neat the seam allowances together and press them to the back.

The neck and armhole bands are placed right sides together and closed in the round. The seam allowances are ironed apart and the bands ironed in the fold.

Then you put the collar, for example, right sides together at the neckline. Now you can sew the band together with your neck hole. The band is turned inside out once and sewn to the neckline the width of a stitched foot. Repeat for the armholes.

Stitch an auxiliary seam along the top edge of the pleated blind by 0.5 cm to ensure that your pleated blind does not slip when it is sewn onto your top. Then sew up the side seam of the pleated blind.

Now place your outer fabric right sides together on the pleated blind and sew it in place. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them up.

Neaten the hem of the pleated part, turn it up, and then sew it in place.

Now all you have to do is topstitch the seam allowance just under the edge on the torso.

Your modified MIA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

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