SCHNITTMUSTER-HACK “QUENTINA & ANKE”

PATTERN HACK “QUENTINA & ANKE”

Our great Quentina dress also works as a top. The accentuation of the waist and the collar of the shirt-blouse has something severe and yet also very feminine. It has both the classic elements such as the collar with a bridge, the continuous button placket and the body-hugging cut, as well as some new, playful details. You can choose between narrow 3/4 sleeves with an open slit and puff sleeves with closed cuffs.

In these instructions, Quentina was sewn from a leftover cotton fabric.

→ To the pattern “Quentina”

In order to get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

Cutting preparations:

First, I took 2 cm away from the shoulder seam and then reshaped the arm cap because I have narrow shoulders and didn't like the position of the arm cap in the previous pattern.

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

  • 2x front parts in opposite directions
  • 1x back part in break
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x pass
  • 2x collar
  • 2x jetty
  • 1x waistband

also with insert:

  • 1x upper collar
  • 1x undercollar
  • 2x jetty

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine to sew this top, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

First you take the two front parts and sew in the darts. You then iron this upwards and neaten the side seam. Then you sew the yokes to the back part.

You can now turn over the shoulder seam with the yokes.

Next up is the button bar. To do this, fold in the raw edges twice on the front part and topstitch this narrow edge.

The sleeves: first, you overcast the side seams of both sleeves. Then you put in the pleats on both the sleeve head and the hem and fix them. After the side seams are closed, you can sew the cuffs to the hem from the outside in and stitch them in place in the shadow of the seam.

Next up is the collar. To do this, first sew the two collar parts together, right sides together, and cut off the seam allowance at the corners. Then you turn the collar and iron it out. Finally, the collar is top-stitched just short of the edge.

Now place the finished collar between the two bars. The snaps on the curves show you where the collar goes. The seam allowance of the curve is either snapped in or cut away.

And you can already use the collar. The collar is sewn on from the outside to the inside. Turn the collar inside out and pin it so that it just covers the seam. The bridge is sewn all the way around the edge to the other bridge. This is how a collar is attached.

In order to sew the waistband on, the pleats in the front and back must first be laid and then fixed.

The waistband, like the collar, is sewn on from the outside in and the edges are top-stitched.

Now only the buttons and buttonholes are missing and then you're done.

Your QUENTINA is ready!

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Let's continue with the short ANKE:

If you dream of sewing your own trousers, we recommend the Anke trousers pattern to start with. With no waistband and no pockets, these Marlene pants are easy to sew, only the side zipper needs a bit of practice. The upper edge is only overturned with a narrow elastic band so that the pants fit well. Anke is therefore not only relatively easy to sew, but is also an extremely quick sewing project.

In these instructions, Anke was sewn from leftover cotton fabric.

→ To the pattern “Anke”

Cutting preparations:

Shorten the cut to your desired length and then add a hem of approx. 3cm. The hem width must be mirrored.

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric . Place the selvedges parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 2x front trousers in opposite directions
  • 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
  • 1x seam zipper min. 22 cm
  • Elastic band: width: 1cm, length: depends on size

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

First, neaten all raw edges except for the hem.
Now iron in the creases by placing the trousers parts wrong sides together. Note the notches and markings on the pattern pieces.

It continues with the sewing of the darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

Now sew the two side seams together, right sides together. On the left pant leg, leave the top piece open for the zipper. Iron the seam allowances apart. Iron up to the zipper snap on the left pant leg.

Now pin the seam zipper open, right sides together, onto one of the zipper seam allowances and sew it in place, paying attention to the width of the seam allowance. At the bottom you sew on the seam allowance, next to the existing seam a few stitches before you end. Zip up and zip the other side of the pants together. Now sew the other side in the same way. Do not iron this seam so the zipper will "hide" in the seam.

Next, sew the inner leg seam. From the tip of the crotch to the next snap, the hind trousers must be stretched slightly. Iron the seam allowances apart.

To sew the crotch seam, turn one trouser leg right side out and slide it into the unturned trouser leg, so the trouser legs are right sides together and you can easily sew the crotch seam from front to back. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Sew the elastic band slightly stretched onto the outside of the upper edge of the pants.

Fold the seam allowance along with the elastic band to the wrong side and stitch it in place.

Neat the trouser hems, press the hem inwards and topstitch it.
Finally, you iron your trousers properly, especially the creases.

Your ANKE is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

The post SEWING PATTERN HACK “QUENTINA & ANKE” first appeared on Blog Schnittmuster Berlin .

Retour au blog